La Ruta de los Conquistadores - Part I
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| Day 3 - on the Railroad Bridges (Photo Fotica) |
My article about my experience riding LA RUTA DE LOS CONQUISTADORES in Costa Rica was published this January in BikePanel. I am translating it to English (with some changes and add-ons of sections that were editorially cut). Photos that were not taken by me, are the same photos that were used in my article and were provided by La Rute and Fotica.
La Ruta - the race that claims to be the toughest in the world - is this the case?
Like most of my crazy ideas in the past, it is likely that I first read about La Ruta in BikePanel or some other Israeli magazine and caught the bug. Next step was organizing a group of 8 local riders, of which 6 were women. Almost every person that I told about this race being my next challenge, raised an eyebrow and looking at me funny, probably thinking to themselves "why would this triathlete from flat Chicago decide to sign up for a race that claims to be the hardest Mountainbiking race in the world?" My boss even went further is his repose to my email inviting him to join us "Sharon, there are easier ways to kill me". Were they correct in their skepticism?
The warnings on the race website that say "Be forewarned: La Ruta It is not a race for novice mountain bikers. Even professional riders often roll their eyes in disbelief when they recount what they have done. This race is a test of everything you’ve got — your riding abilities, physical endurance, mental strength and equipment durability..." Only made me more determined to do it.
The warnings on the race website that say "Be forewarned: La Ruta It is not a race for novice mountain bikers. Even professional riders often roll their eyes in disbelief when they recount what they have done. This race is a test of everything you’ve got — your riding abilities, physical endurance, mental strength and equipment durability..." Only made me more determined to do it.
Now that enough time has passed after completing La Ruta I believe that these warning are not just an exaggeration no that every word is cut in stone. La Ruta was the hardest thing I've ever done in my life
Let's start with some background about La Ruta
The La Ruta de Los Conquistadores is a multi day race (3 days) that crosses Costa Rica from Jaco that is on the pacific coast to the town of Limon on the shores of the Caribbean sea. The course crosses through jungles, mountain ranges, volcanoes, banana and coffee plantations and the breathtaking landscape of Costa Rica. This race claim to fame is being the toughest race in the world, and a lot will agree. La Ruta is definitely oldest multi stage mountainbiking race in the world, the race that started and inspired this trend (e.g., Cape Epic and Trans Alps).
In order for us to understand what the locals call "the spirit of La Ruta" we must start with a short history lesson. Back in the 1560s 3 Spanish conquistadors ("Conquistadores" in Spanish) decided to cross Costa Rica's treacherous mountains from the Pacific to the Caribbean. This adventurous journey, crossing the counties lavish rain forests, mountain ranges, rivers and other challenging terrains took them 20 years!
Urbina's mantra, and the spirit that guides La Ruta is "La Ruta is more than a race, it is a personal growth experience" The goal is much more than just crossing the finish line, it is about the journey. Discovering new cultures, meeting new friends, and mainly giving it what you got and then some.
In the first 12 years of the event, the first place winners were local riders ("Ticos" as they are called by the local). With the years, as word about the race spread in the world, some of the world best mountainbikers decided to to give it a try. In 2014, among the famous athletes that races were Tom Wells and the legendary Tinker Joarez. During the years the race has grown and over 500 participant stood on the start line, 30 of which were women.
Today, when I read these lines, and think about what I have been through during those 3 days, I can say that Urbina's goal was fully achieved - I did give all I have and then some, and my true victory was crossing the finish line on the other side of the country.
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| Crossing the finish line with together with my gals (L-R, Jenna, me, Lauri, Beth and Mary Ann) |
Perhaps it's because I've been living in the States for too long or maybe it's my German side, but when I sign up for a race, I am used to the fact that the race website includes all the needed information (starting with the route and ending with admin), and that the race organizers will take care of all the small details (and if they don't they will tell you so on the website); and all of the above will be included in the registration fee, what is not insignificant in the case of La Ruta. Very quickly I understood that I am not in Kansas anymore and more in the land of the Pura Vida (or as us Israelis say "it will be OK"). This made getting organized for this race a challenge of itself.
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| Bike all packed and ready to go |
The Bike - well that was easy, I only have one mountainbike (yeah, shocking, I know), that I bought when I was thinking about signing up for La Ruta. So, my Specialized Epic, was the weapon of choice. I did invest in a professional fit so this type of riding, new saddle, and tires that would work well in all terrains, from mud to fast gravel roads. The bike with the new setup, that was much more aggressive than before, I tested during my first official training ride, Rebecca's Private Idaho.
The Shoes - this is where I needed an expert advice. I texted my friend Nimi who responded "your stiff S-Works should are not really a good choice of this type of event that includes a lot of hike-a-bike sections". His advice was to look into shoes with a softer sole like vibram. After a "short" dig (what I call research) I decided on the Pearl Izumi - Project X that claimed to provide flexibility without jeopardizing pedaling efficiency. I confess that the cool black and lime green colors were significant factors in my decision :-) After several test rides I concluded that I made the right decision. Thanks Nimi!
About the rest of the equipment and packing list, the one thing that was clear from the La Ruta website was that the race organizers will only transport one bag that will be given to us at registration. Being an over-packer, I was lucky that Costa Rica is a warm country, which means that other than a vest and rain jacket (and of course riding cloths), we do not need more layers. As a last minute decision, I stuck into my bag another pair of cycling shoes (a decision that turned out to be a smart one on the second day of the race).
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| Photo by La Ruta |
What About The Admin?
How do we get from the San Jose airport ro Jaco, where the race starts? How do we transfer tje bike box to the finish? How are the bikes being transferred from one day finish to the next day start? how do we get back from the finish in Limon to San Jose?What will be provided at the aid stations? This is where our frustration started. At the time we signed up there were almost no explanations on the website. Lucky for us, 2 of guys in our group raced La Ruta the previous year and their significant other (who this year decided to ride) who supported them, explained that with the exception of the arrival to Jaco, all of the above were provided by the race organizers. They also commented that we cannot rely on the aid stations for more than just water. We decided not to take any chances and carry our own nutrition for the race.
A few weeks before the race we were surprised to find out that the website was updated and now includes a list of "additional services" where were not included in the registration fee. Transfers form San Jose airport to Jaco, mechanic and bike washing services during the race and the transfer from the finish line back to San Jose will cost us additional $475, a considerable amount that we were not anticipating. The Israeli in me could not agree with paying such a ridicules amount, gladly the others were feeling the same. After a few very frustrating emails with the race organizers, we decided on DIY approach. We split the work among us and started working on alternatives. In the end, we managed to organize all the transfers for less than $100 per person, and some of us, myself included, did decide to pay for the mechanic and washing service. This decision was the right one, because really, who feel like washing its dirty and muddy bike after a very long day of riding or fix any issues (and in my case replacing the front derailleur cable).
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| At the Packet Pickup |
5am, we are in Jaco, dropping off over our race bags to be transferred to the finish line, and walking our bikes to the beach. Load music is playing in the background and more than 500 riders are lining up on the start shoot, drones and media helicopters circling in the sky. The atmospheric is electrifying. The start line is on the sand, of course in the deeper section. The guys rush us to line up front to get a good position for the start. I look at the sand, hmmm, looks a little deep, is it even rideable? oh well, I guess we'll find out soon enough.
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| The Start Line (Photo: La Ruta) |
Leave your pride at home, hike-a-bike is a must
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La Ruta Day I
Right from the start I realized that the next 3 days are not going to be a walk in the park. 500 riders and deep sand means - the race starts with running and pushing your bike in the deep sand, with the exception of a few fat-bike rides who glided over the sand easily (as you will see, they will be regretting there choice soon enough).
Hike-a-bike - this motion will repeat itself for miles and miles during this race. The deep sand gets into my shoes and is annoying, I considered for a brief second to stop and clean my shoes, but decided to ignore it (saying to myself "man-up Sharon") and keep going. After a few hundred meters the sand becomes gravel, I jump on the bike and finally start to pedal. 5 of us girls are all together for the start. The plan is to start easy, we have a long day ahead of us.
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| Hike-a-Bike (Photo Fotica) |
The first day of La Ruta is know as the make or brake day. If you survive the first day, the likelihood of finishing goes up. That was my mantra for the day - get to the finish line before the cutoff time. During the first few miles, I pass a couple from Texas that I met the previous day. It is their 5th time riding La Ruta, and to commemorate that they both have a big yellow La Ruta logo tattoo on their calves (it must be the mountain biker version of the M Dot, I think to myself, as they are not the only ones with this tattoo). They give me a short preview of what to expat and take off. The one tip I got from them (read with a heavy Texan accent) "the real climb starts when you get to the waterfall". I think to myself, what are they talking about, as if we are not climbing now? shortly thereafter I understood what they were talking about ...
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| Day I profile (from La Ruta website) |
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| First climb of the day (photo: La Ruta) |
How hard can 13K be?
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| Muddy uphill and downhills |
The most talk about section of the first day is the section we were all fearing the most, 13 kilometers of jungle crossing. As soon as we entered the jungle section the road became narrow and full of deep ruts created by rain; and since the month of November is still the considered to be the rainy season - we find mud, mud and more mud. The mud is similar to the mud back home, the annoying type that stick to the wheels and just stay there. Soon enough we all dismount and here start the hike-a-bike again. 13 kilometers of pushing the bike in mud that sometimes get to be knee high deep, walking up and down very steep muddy hills.
The mud accumulated on the tires to a degree that I cannot spin it anymore. During each steam crossing I take a few minutes to clean the bike.
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| The Unofficial La Ruta Bike Cleaning Station (Photo: Fotica) |
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| Photo: Fotica |
I think the group that was suffering even more are those who decided to ride their fat bikes. Those giant tires, looked even bigger and heavier all covered with layers of this sticky mud. Kate from Utah, that was convinced last minute to ride a fat bike instead of her light 29er, was muttering under her lips "what a mistake, I don't know if I can drag this weight for 3 days".
Somewhere in the middle of the jungle, a local farmer opened a stand and offered us fresh oranges that were just picked. In the 30C (86F) heat and humidity, those oranges felt like an oasis in the middle of the desert! Those 13 kilometers took me 3-4 hours to complete, but finally I got to the second aid station. I make a quick stop to refill water and I notice on the side of the road a bike washing station - great, I think to myself, no more mud. Boy was I wrong ...
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| Rick recommended to add padding to our camelbacks as preparation for this section. Against my best fashion judgment about how ridicules we looked, I succumbed to the peer pressure. In the end I did not need this extra peddling. Thank got I had the cool socks to compensate. (Photo: Fotica) |
Every time I ask how many more kilometers we have left I get a different answer. I developed the theory that kilometers in Costa Rica is a very fluid term (at some point I caught up to Jenna and we were riding together). It's late in the day and I start to worry that we will not make it before the cut-off. After yet another endless climb, we start descending, an old lady from one of the villages yells at us in Spanish "that's it you are close - 4 more kilometers and all downhill". We smile, sure that we made it, we will cross the finish line with time to spare. Of course we were wrong. The downhill ends in a small town, that's it, this must be where the finish line is, it's been 4 kilometers; but the little town is too quite. Jenna and I look at each other in disrepair, wait a second what is going on here, this is not happening!
Someone signaled us to turn right to a small side street, it's a dead end with a giant blue gate. Maybe we took the wrong turn somewhere? after all we heard that La Ruta is infamous for bad marking (Rebecca Rusch told is in August that she took a wrong turn during one of the times she races it, that wrong turn probably cost her first place in that race). Someone opens the gate for us, and signal us to get in. I'm asking one of the guys that is standing on the side - how much longer? He say 5 kilometers, the guy that open the door say 6. Jenna and I look at the muddy singletrack on the other side of the gate in disbelief and frustration.
Another section of about 6 kilometers of hike-a-bike. It starting to get darker, the trail is muddy, rocky and slippery. We decide to walk it and not take any risks by riding. It is almost dark, the mud becomes deeper, in some places as deep as my knees. My shoes are getting wet again and I can barely see.
Like this in the dusk we are walking and pushing our bikes. At some point I pick my bike up and start running, leaving Jenna behind. I must make it to the finish before the cut-off. My sunglasses are gone, they fell somewhere in this mud, oh well, I will never find them. I keep running towards the unknown.
I get to the main road and jump on the bike heading in the direction I was told to go. I cannot see the marking. Someone from a nearby house yells something to me in Spanish. I have no idea what he said. When I get to the bottom of a short hill I realized that somewhere I made the wrong turn. It's dark, almost 5:30pm. I doubt that I will make it in time. someone steps outside on a house and tell me that I need to go back uphill and cross the bridge. I jump back on the bike and sprint up the hill, cross the bridge. Where now? I can't see the signs. A car behind me illuminate the road for me and the driving is yelling to me where I should go. How come everybody know the route except for me? I am thinking to myself, I sure hope this guy is not pulling my leg here, but I have no choice I ride in the direction he is telling me to go.
Finally I hear the music from the finish line and I see it. I gather the last bit of energy that I have and sprint to the finish. Yes, I finished the last day within the cutoff. Jenna crosses the finish line a few minutes behind.
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| Photo: La Ruta |
The first day was so hard (and harder than past years) that race organizers decided to count the day to all those of braved it and crossed the finish line, regardless of the cutoff.
After I crossed the finish line I saw Michelle, she had tiers in her eyes. She did not make it to the finish. After 8.5 hours we was at the 54th kilometer. The broom car took her bike and make her get in. Turns out that the sand and water resulted in giant blisters on both feet and after 13 kilometers of jungle she could barely walk or paddle. Despite the pain, she did not give up and continued to push forward until someone else made the decision for her. The blisters that she got were so deep that for about 1 month she shouldn't wear shoes that are not flipflops.
Beth that was with Michelle when the broom car stopped by decided to keep going. Turns out that she arrived at that blue gate in pitch black, the man at the gate told her "I am not supposed to let you pass, but if you want you can" (pura vida - as I said). Beth that had no idea what to expect kept going. She walked the entire 6 kilometers to the light of her ipod flashlight app and the moon. When we were all on the bus and about to head to the hotel for the night, there was no sign of Beth and the finish line was already disassembled. We explained to the race organizers that she is missing. 30 min later we were told that Beth was found and she is on a different bus and will meet us at the hotel. For her determination, the race organizers decided to count her fist day.
As I said in the beginning, Urbina's goal for the event was totally achieved.
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| I've never been happier to see a finish line (with Jenna and Mary Ann) |
Read about Days II and III in Part II,
Thanks for reading.
provided great information. All the details are explained clearly with the great explanation. Thanks for this wonderful blog. Step by step processes execution are given clearly.
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